Many people don't realise it, but beaches are a in fact a
landform of deposition caused by the sea and its sediment. They can form in
many different types of coastline and bring immense enjoyment and satisfaction to
many of those who use them.
Beach profiles generally fall into two extremes: those that
are wide and flat (constructive) and those that are narrow and steep
(destructive). The type of beaches depends on the wave energy and more specifically,
the type of wave. The types of wave include;
- Constructive waves.
These wash sediment up the beach as the waves have high energy, they then
deposit the sediment as the energy of the wave decreases and it flows back down
as backwash and out to the sea. They are usually shallow and of a low frequency.
It involves a strong swash and weak backwash, as well as a long fetch (the
horizontal distance over which wave-generating winds blow).
- Destructive waves.
These pick up sediment as they run down the beach and carry it back out to sea,
therefore 'destroying' the beach. Often
involve high waves and they are often of a high frequency. They have a strong
backwash and a weak swash, as well as a short fetch.
(NOTE; swash - the rush of seawater up the beach after the
breaking of a wave.
backwash -
The motion of receding waves, as water flows down the beach)
The type of beach also depends upon the particle size. There
is a relationship between particle size and the beach slope profile; this is
partly to do with grain size but also to do with percolation rates.
As a result, different beaches will have different features
associated with them. For instance, destructive waves often produce steep
beaches whereas the beaches formed by constructive waves are often much more
gently sloping. Or, shingle beaches are steeper than sand beaches because
shingle beaches have higher percolation rates.
Constructive waves (top) and Destructive waves (bottom. Images from BBC. |
Great post as always.
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